Franciscan Estate’s Delicious White Wines

I recently enjoyed two lovely white wines when lunching with Janet Myers, the very talented director of winemaking at the venerable Napa Valley Franciscan Estate winery. Because they were so good, I requested a sample of a third, and it too was a hit.  I loved all three wines. I hope you too get a chance to enjoy them.

Equilibrium White Blend Napa Valley 2012 (SRP $23): Franciscan explains that the name means “to come together in a state of harmonious balance.” Crafted by experts in blending, this wine does just that. The unique mix of Sauvignon Blanc (72%), Chardonnay (17%) and Muscat (11%) swept me off my feet. As in any admirable combination, the grapes bring out the best in one another.

The wine has aromas and flavors of white peach, nectarine, pear, melon, passion fruit, guava and citrus, as well as floral notes of honeysuckle and jasmine. It’s fruit forward. Crisp. It has a full, round body on the palate. Try it with spicy barbecue and Thai and other Asian cuisines.

Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley 2012 (SRP $17): Franciscan says, “We took this wine on a little trip–the Loire meets New Zealand by way of Napa Valley.” They source grapes from a few Napa Valley sub-appellations and use a few small-lot winemaking techniques. Fruit from vineyards characterized by a mineral quality receive low, cold fermentation in tank to highlight the purity and minerality, as is done in the Loire. Berries from vineyards that produce rich, expressive fruit are treated to a New Zealand technique: giving the must 6 to 8 hours of skin contact. The resulting wine combines the best of three countries. It’s delicious, with aromas and flavors of lime, grapefruit, honeydew and green apple. Some citrus and tropical fruit.  Complex and vibrant. Long mineral finish.

Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay Napa Valley 2011 (SRP $40): In 1987 Franciscan was the first Napa Valley winery to make a 100% wild-yeast-fermented Chardonnay. The yeasts found on the grape skins carry out the fermentation. (The more common procedure is to inoculate the juice with commercial yeasts.) Each yeast contributes its own character to the wine, creating layers of complexity. In a kind of domino effect, as one strain slows, another starts. It’s a risky and unpredictable procedure that’s a Burgundian tradition, but many in California considered it too unpredictable to be attempted there. It requires winemaker expertise, constant attention to each barrel, a bit of praying and perhaps even a touch of luck.

Aromas and flavors of apple, pear, crème brûlée, honeysuckle and citrus. Full bodied. Elegant and sophisticated. Well balanced. Creamy flavors, crisp acidity, foundation of minerality. A beautiful wine.

Sparkling and White Wines for Summer Sipping and Dining

by Sharon Kapnick

When I think of summer’s culinary joys, I think of steamed lobsters and fried clam rolls at the shore, clambakes at the beach, and sautéed softshell crabs wherever I can find them. I think too of mouth-watering barbecued and grilled foods–ribs, steak, chicken, burgers, hot dogs, salmon, pizza, portobello mushrooms and a bevy of other vegetables. Why, I can even smell their seductive barbecue aromas right now. Then my mind wanders to old-fashioned picnics: roast and fried chicken, cold-cut sandwiches, coleslaw, potato chips, potato salad, pasta salads, well, actually, all kinds of salads.

Summer offers up a wide array of food, which calls for a wide array of wines. Fortunately, there are plenty of wines that shout, “It’s summer  Drink me! ” Here’s an appealing assortment that includes many bargains perfect for parties, some white wines that complement barbecued ribs surprisingly well,  some wines to sip between meals and even, as a lagniappe, a liqueur. ( Also see the second part of this story, including rosés and red wines.)

Sparkling Wines

Although they’re generally very reasonably priced, Spain’s Cavas are made using the same expensive and time-consuming method Champagne makers use. The usual grapes, however–Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel-lo, native to Catalonia–are another story. While the taste is different, they’re still festive and celebratory.

When I want to serve Cava, I often turn to Jaume Serra Cristalino, which is made in four styles and four sizes. Cristalino is always singled out for terrific value by the print wine publications. It’s no wonder it’s the fastest-growing Cava brand in the U.S.

Jaume Serra Cristalino Brut Cava (SRP $10*): Toasty nose. Citrus, green apple and mineral flavors. Clean, crisp and lively. Complements just about any meal, especially hors d’oeuvres, seafood, sushi, caviar, quiche, fried food, tapas, dim sum and other Asian dishes. And it’s good all by itself.

Jaume Serra Cristalino Extra Dry Cava (SRP $10): Aromas and flavors of toast, pear, apple, citrus, peach and green apple. Refreshing, smooth, easy to drink, very slightly sweet and surprisingly elegant at this low price. Try it with barbecued ribs, fried foods, sushi and other Asian dishes, especially spicy ones.

Both white and pink sparkling Moscatos perfectly embody the breezy, carefree personality of summer. Over the past few years, a Moscato boom has been raging across the U.S.  If you’re curious to see what all the fuss is about, here are a couple of vivacious, lighthearted bargains to try on their own or with dessert.

Opera Prima Sparkling Moscato (SRP $8): Aromas and flavors of lychee, pear, tropical fruits and rose petal. Crisp and refreshing. From Spain’s La Mancha. With some 500,000 acres of vineyards, it’s the largest wine-making region in the world.

Opera Prima Pink Moscato Vino de la Tierra de Castilla (SRP $8; 97% Muscat, 3% Tempranillo): Aromas and flavors of fresh berries, cantaloupe and tropical fruits. Delicate bubbles. Crisp, effervescent personality. Quite sweet.

White Wines

Sauvignon Blanc complements fish and shellfish, grilled and tough-to-pair-with-wine vegetables like asparagus and artichokes, main-course and side salads and simply roasted or grilled meats; it’s a classic with goat cheese. And it’s flexible enough so that Danny Meyer, owner of several beloved, top-rated restaurants in New York City, including the barbecue joint Blue Smoke, recommends it with barbecue. “Go with any white wine that is high in citric acid, like Sauvignon Blanc or Sancerre,” he said, “particularly if you’re a lemonade-with-barbecue fan.”

Dashwood Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2011 (SRP $12): Vibrant aromas and flavors of citrus and tropical fruit. Has the zesty, zingy, lively acidity New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs are loved for.

Le Jaja de Jau Sauvignon Blanc Cotes de Gascogne 2010 (SRP $10): This wine benefits from an explanation of its front label, which is found on its back label: Jaja is old French slang for a glass of wine, an everyday wine. Jau is a wine estate in southern France. Ben is the artist who penned the label. Now, on to the wine: Aromas and flavors of grapefruit, lemon and lime. Ideal as an aperitif and for fish and other seafood. Crisp, with good acidity. Lovely wine, distinctive label, great price.

(also see my November post “White Wine Lovers Flock in Droves to New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc” for more recommendations)

Albariño is considered by many to be the most prestigious Spanish white wine. It’s certainly my favorite Spanish white. It hales from Rías Baixas on the Atlantic coast, where the natives drink it morning, noon and night. It’s perfect with the seafood caught in the region and just as perfect with the seafood served here. And it’s another one of those whites that shines with barbecued ribs. Vince Friend, president of importer CIV USA, attended a Food & Wine Magazine Classic tasting in Aspen, Colorado, some years ago and reported that when six wines were paired with barbecued ribs, everyone expected the Merlot and the Sangiovese to stand out. Surprisingly, the favorites were the Champagne and the Albariño.

Condes de Albarei Albariño Rias Baixas 2011 (SRP $12): Aromas and flavors of tropical fruit, citrus and melons. Vibrant, juicy. From a cooperative of 362 grower/owners. Consistently well rated year after year. An excellent value.

Mar de Frades Albariño Val do Salnes Rías Baixas 2010 (SRP $25): Aromas and flavors of pear, melon and citrus. Crisp and fresh. When the wine is chilled to the right serving temperature (50-52 degrees F), a blue ship appears on the back label. It disappears when the wine becomes too warm for optimum pleasure.

The island of Santorini in the Aegean Sea is renowned for its white Assyrtiko wines. And Domaine Sigalas crafts some of the best in some of the driest, hottest, sunniest (i.e., desert-like) and windiest vineyards in the world. (Great wines come from vines that suffer.) In the summer, evening fog provides the only water of the season to the grapes. Influential wine critic Robert M. Parker Jr. has called Sigalas one of Greece’s best white wine producers and “a master with this grape.”

Domaine Sigalas  Santorini Assyrtiko 2011 (SRP $25): Aromas and flavors of citrus fruits and minerals. An elegant, crisp, fruity, well-balanced wine that currently tastes much better on the second day (as quite a few wines do) and should be even better in 2013. High acidity. The average vine age is more than 50 years old. Try it with spreads and dips (hummus, tzatziki, guacamole, baba ghannoush, fava bean puree), olives, vegetables (greens and tomatoes), seafood (octopus, oysters, sushi) and fatty fish.

While Pinot Grigio is wildly popular, I prefer something with a little more oomph. Pinot Gris from California and Alsace are the somewhat heftier versions from the same grape. It’s more like Chardonnay in weight and texture. While Pinot Gris has the acidity of a white wine, it’s fuller bodied than most and can often take the place of a red.

Chateau Ste Michelle Pinot Gris Columbia Valley 2010 (SRP $13): Aromas and flavors of pear, melon, citrus and spice. A small amount of Viognier (3%) adds texture and floral character. Good acidity. Serve with scallops and other shellfish, halibut and other seafood, cheese and fruit. From one of the most reliable producers in the U.S.

Lagniappe: Limoncello

If the trees give you lemons, well, you can make lemonade. Better yet, you can make Limoncello. That’s exactly what Italy, the world’s largest producer of lemons, has done. While Limoncello is a specialty of Southern Italy, it’s quite popular throughout the country–and with U.S. tourists.

Villa Massa Limoncello Liqueur (SRP $15): Villa Massa’s Limoncello has been made in Sorrento since 1890 following an old family recipe that uses only four all natural ingredients: fresh Sorrento Oval Lemon peels (rich in essential oils), sugar, water, and pure alcohol. Traditionally an after-dinner digestivo, it also serves well as an aperitif (ice cold from the freezer), in cocktails, in Champagne, or over ice cream, fruit salad and other desserts.

*Wines can usually be found for less–sometimes considerably less–than the SRP (suggested retail price). Check out wine-searcher.com to get an idea of actual prices.

I requested samples of some of these wines and was sent samples of some others.

White Wine Lovers Flock in Droves to New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc

By Sharon Kapnick

New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is a great success story, a phenomenon really. Although the first vines were planted in Marlborough as recently as 1973 and the first wine made in commercial amounts in 1980, by the early ’90s, Sauvignon Blanc had become the country’s flagship wine. Soon after, it  started to capture much attention and gain fans in the U.S. In doing so, it rejuvenated and redefined the Sauvignon Blanc category. Now its style is emulated by others worldwide.

Over the past year ending on August 20, according to Nielsen, New Zealand wines had the fastest growth rate of all import countries it measured. Volume went up 31.8%. (More than 90% of New Zealand wine sales in the U.S. are Sauvignon Blanc.) And, says Nielsen, sales of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc are growing much faster than those of U.S. Sauvignon Blanc.

Why? The wines have flair. The words often used to describe them are racy, zingy, zippy, zesty, bold, exuberant–all very upbeat, appealing qualities. The wines have distinctive, pungent, powerful aromas and flavors and lots of character and personality, occasionally even bordering on flamboyance. It’s a style that’s caught on like wildfire. Mary-Ewing Mulligan and Ed McCarthy wrote in Wine Style: “Many Sauvignon Blanc wines from the Marlborough region redefine the term aromatics, so intense are their passion fruit, green citrus, or vegetal aromas and flavors.”

Most of the country’s Sauvignon Blanc is grown in Marlborough, New Zealand’s premier wine-producing region, at the north end of the South Island. Marlborough’s dry, sunny days and cool maritime nights–no point in New Zealand is farther than 70 miles from the sea–suit the varietal, as does the long growing season.

In the U.S. the wines are easy to find, easy to open–-upwards of 95% have screw caps– and often easy on the pocketbook. Here are some brands to know and four delicious wines I tasted recently, either with the winemaker or from samples I received.

Recommended Wineries and Wines

Cloudy Bay  (www.cloudybay.co.nz) was named in 1770 when British naval Captain James Cook was navigating the New Zealand coast. The winery that took its name was founded in 1985. Cloudy Bay is usually considered the best New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Master Sommelier Vincent Gasnier wrote in Top 10 Wines: Australia and New Zealand: “Cloudy Bay defined the archetypal New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and became an international celebrity.” In September, Drinks International released its list of the World’s Most Admired Wine Brands, a comprehensive industry poll of the world’s best regarded wines, and Cloudy Bay was among the Top 10.

Cloudy Bay Marlborough 2010: Aromas and flavors of lime, grapefruit, mango, nectarine, gooseberry and orange blossoms. Mineral tones. Elegant and crisp. Most New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs are cold fermented in stainless steel, but a small portion of this wine spent time in old French oak barriques. An excellent value at $25 SRP (suggested retail price*).

In 1943 Nikola Nobilo, a Croatian immigrant, planted his first vines in his new home west of Auckland, at the north end of the North Island. Nobilo became one of New Zealand’s pioneering winemakers. He played an important role in steering plantings toward Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir and  developing the Marlborough region . Today Nobilo (nobilo.co.nz), now owned by Constellation NZ, is one of the top-selling New Zealand brands in the U.S.

Nobilo Regional Collection Marlborough 2010 ($14, SRP): Aromas and flavors of lime, pineapple, melon, passion fruit and tropical fruits; fresh, crisp, fruit forward. An excellent value.

Dashwood  (www.vavasour.com) was founded in 1989 by Vavasour Wines, which made its wine with grapes from the Ataware Valley. But Vavasour wanted to offer a different style, one with crisp acidity, vibrant fruit flavors and intense aromatics, so it created  Dashwood, which blends grapes from the Wairau Valley for their fruit character and grapes from the Ataware Valley for their flinty, mineral character.

Dashwood Marlborough 2010 ($14, SRP): Aromas and flavors of pineapple, melon, white peach, citrus and mango. An excellent value.

Martinborough, at the south end of the North Island, and Marlborough, right across the Cook Strait, are similar to each other in soil profile and climate. But Craggy Range (http://www.craggyrange.com) believes that the small differences are critical. It opted for Martinborough, generally thought of as Pinot Noir territory, for its Sauvignon Blanc because it believes that the wines are more extracted, complex and structured, with more subtle aromatics and greater elegance. Try them side by side with some Marlborough wines to see if you agree.

Craggy Range Te Muna Road Martinborough 2010 ($22 SRP): Aromas and flavors of lime, passion fruit and herbs. This wine is fermented in French oak barriques and stainless steel tanks.

Foods that pair especially well with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc: Tomatoes, salads, vegetarian soups, vegetarian dishes; goat and many other cheeses; seafood, shellfish; light chicken, veal and turkey dishes; Indian, Thai, Chinese and Japanese dishes, including spicy ones; dishes with herbs and garlic

*Note: Wines can usually be found for less money–sometimes considerably less–than their SRP. Check out wine-searcher.com to get an idea of discounted prices.